A man, his dog and the long tail

Joe at Lake Bin el Ouidane

Wednesday 23rd July 2008.
Hotel Morocco House, Marrakesh.
The temperature is in the low 40s and I am still aclimatizing, sweating out all the booze and junk food Ive accumulated over the last 3 months and weaning myself onto my Moroccan diet of water, fruit and herbs.

I dont feel that ive clicked into the pace here yet, im sure it will come but I am still feeling vulnerable, yesterday for example I lost 140 dhms buying a lump of cooked Henna. I always think its a good thing to start with a bad experience as it jolts me out of my Western world mind with a bang and I appreciate my own stupidity and ignorance within my new world. Proud to say I got straight back in the saddle whilst wandering around the maze like and totally amazing central plaza of Marrakesh, Jamna Fna - one of very few UNESCO "Living" World Heritage Sites.

I dont feel like extending myself too much at the moment Ive made a few phone calls and had a meeting but until I feel comfortable in my skin I think I should just hold back a little, who was it that said: "you only got 1 chance to make a first impression" - never more so in the Morrocan world.
Changing my hotel on Thursday as this one is taking me way over budget. The next one is owned by a friend of Joseph - from Bin-construction, its only 180 dhms a night as opposed to the 400 dhms im paying for this nice AC cooled place. I was hoping that I might get a web job from either of the two or atleast a chance to pitch, but both the owners are away for the summer to escape the heat - whimps.



I have a meeting tonight with Patrick Lamarie the owner of Riad Ouzoud, Mike and I did his web site for him, - it was our first web 2.0 job. I hope that Patrick can introduce me to a few Riad owners in Marrakesh, and I'm sure Ill go and stay at his place for a few days to do some web alterations, its on the way to the lake anyway. On the license subject; I spoke to the head honcho in Casablanca yesterday and he said it would be another month before possibly the public auction was released. There is nothing I can do but wait.

Mike arrives in Tangier on Thursday he has a room to do 360 photos of at the Tangerina hotel. he is going to take a trip out to my apartment and take some 360's of the place as its nearing completion. I really don't know what to do with it as I'm worried that I wont get a mortgage or if I even want a mortgage with whats going on in the banking world at present. I think I am going to put a web site up with a view to selling or renting it long term and see if I get any response. I don't think the property market in Tangier is so affected at least not on the Atlantic coast side. Location Location Location is the mantra I sung when looking for the place, now is the time to see if I chose well. By the way if anyone is interested:

THIS MESSAGE IS BROUGHT TO YOU BY FRASERADS

Atlantic Magna is located in the most prestigious and exclusive area of Tangier, close to Cape Spartel and the Caves of Hercules yet only 10 mins from the airport and 15 from Tangier Center Ville. This 2 bedroom 2 bathroom sleep 6/8 luxuriously appointed ground floor apartment has views to the Atlantic and access directly to the tropical gardens and multi level pools. Atlantic Magna is perched above the beach with spectacular views to the Atlantic and the often deserted white sands and rolling breakers.

Marble floors and tadelakt walls

Tech Spec:
2 bedrooms
2 Bathrooms (1 en suite)
kitchen, living room, dining area, tea room (Berber lounge), interior patio, exterior patio
Build surface 120.60 m2
Terrace and interior patio 45.57 m2
24 hour gated security, underground parking, storage room.
Architects: Gonzales & Jacobson.
41,130 m2 site, 72 apartments of 2/3 bedrooms



Rental:
High season: (summer months) 1000/wk euros
Mid season (spring/Autumn) 750/wk
Low season (winter) 500/wk

Long Term Rental 1750/month

Purchase:
335,000 euros ( developer finance available up to 150,000)
I hopefully will have a web site up soon and you can check my blog for more details on it. www.mediamorocco.blogspot.com


Its good to have a little time to reflect on what a great 3 months Ive had, Ive done a European tour and visited so many family and friends, thanks in the most part to the largesse of said family and friends. It started with Kenneth who's spare room I commandeered and who's web site we built, www.jhkspecialgarden.com, some much needed cash and work came my way from Paul of Garden Solutions, we gave his company our web 2.0 treatment and so far the response and increased business from the sites has been good, www.gardensolutionscostadelsol.com.

Then it was off to Scotland to see Carol and Rikki, Edhan and Eilidh. It was a great spring for me having witnessed a beautiful Atlas mountain spring time when the barren hills seem to come alive in a riot of colour, to the different joys of a Scottish spring. I think we had sun, rain, hail and snow during the 10 days I spent around Lochwinnoch, a rare chance to experience the beauty of spring on two different continents in contrast. Duncan Katie Finn and Woody flew up to join us and we celebrated Woody's second and my 40th on a fine and sunny day of barbecue and fishing and family.

I returned to Duncan's house in Poole, Dorset where spring was more advanced and spent lazy days getting to know Finn and Woody and enjoying the rhythm of Dunc's and Katies world. Duncan and I did our customary and enjoyable fishing trip which of course ended up as a fishing competition, thankfully between me and Dunc and the rest of the boat load of Noddies. We pasted them catching more fish between us than the rest of the 9 anglers combined.

Joe makes it to Paris

I returned to Malaga with few plans and seemingly even fewer options, Damien and Lillie, more of them later, gave me a much needed roof over my head and some space to let me plan my next stage. Joe had been in Morocco since October and on his own since April. I was paying a local guy to look after him at the hotel, www.hotelbinelouidane.com - another media morocco site, but getting him back to Spain had to be priority. First however make some money. Mike arrived back from his sejourn in Egypt he had been staying with a friend of ours from Marbella who moved down to the red sea resort of Hurgada to sell real estate. Mike took two PADI exams while there and is now Rescue diver, Id love to do that again.

Anyway after doing the photos at La Tangerina hotel he jumped on the ferry and got a sofa at Mike Skillmans place while working on Kenneth's and Paul's web sites.I was in Kenneths spare room again and when not working with Mike I got a few days labouring with JHK Special Garden, it was great fun and I learnt alot. Still with little idea of how to get to Morocco and pick up Joe one of those "Secret" moments happened and Mr Steve Orten came back into my life, with a plan and an invitation to travel up to Antibes and onto Paris for a little reunion. With a deadline in sight I sold my Dell XPS 2010 to Andre, more of him later too, and he Western Unioned me his deposit and I jumped on a bus Marrakesh.

The XPS after I sold it to Andre - up to his elbows in computer grease

I stopped over for an afternoon at La Tangerina and ended up going with Jurgen to buy a new computer system, got them a nice HP desktop and an external hard drive and set everything up, I think its working out for them. Then it was onto my favourite night train the 9pm sleeper to Marrakesh. I spent an interesting evening sharing a 4 berth with an Irish property developer and a Scottish ornithologist on his holidays after a 3 month sabbatical at Donnana. The Irish fellow had bread cheese dates figs and an excellent line in stories and the evening past well till it was time to crash. I was surprised to be woken around 3am as the train doesn't get into Marrakesh till 8am, apparently the line was closed and had been all week as they were laying new track, obviously just forgot to tell me that when I paid for the Marrakesh ticket.
Last stop Casablanca. I bloody hate Casablanca, from Gare to Gare and onto the 6am bone rattler bus to Beni Mellal. Moroccan public transport is noisy and smelly but its cheap, efficient and brings you up close to the real folk. Only 45 dhms for a 4 hour journey makes it all seem worthwhile.

Hamid picked me up in his new Land cruiser he got it for 100,000 Dhms thats about 9k euros so he must be doing ok from all the web exposure Ive given him and it was off to the lake. I had been on the road for 28 hours at this point and was feeling pretty spaced, mind you being with Hamid for more than 30 mins would space anyone out.

I was feeling pretty nervous about Joe, Hamid had told me that the cyst on his neck was even bigger and Joe wasn't eating well, my worst fears were confirmed when he literally staggered out and collapsed at my feet, his back legs seemingly too weak to support him. My heart was in my crocs and I felt such a rush of mixed emotions that it took me a moment to see that Joe was experiencing a similar moment and he too was coming round. Things went froom doom to a hesitant joyfulness, Joe seemed to get stronger by the moment but I got Hamid to call the local Vet who promised to come by later in the afternoon. The vet wasn't sure but he didn't think it was life threatening but to get Joe to his vets in Spain asap, I decided to head back to Tangier as quickly as possible and after just a night at Hamids I jumped a taxi to Beni Mellal and started the homeward journey.

Bringing Joe from Spain down to Morocco seemed like a blessed trip, I had taken Bus, Ferry and more buses, paying a ticket for Joe each time and no one said a thing, returning was another matter. I tried 4 different buses but none would accept a dog unless in a cage and in the baggage section. I didn't have a cage and still felt optimistic that I was just having some bad breaks, I felt appalled at the thought of stuffing Joe in the luggage hold. My reaction to this would be ground to naught over the coming weeks. I had about 300 euros and none of my plastic would accept more abuse so the transportation problem was critical. Every move counted and if I was to get back I would need some luck and alot of streetwise. I decided to take a cab from Beni Mellal to Casablanca and had negotiated a fair of 700 dhms - 60 euros thinking I could jump on the night train back to Tangier. Of course the train wouldn't accept a dog unless he was in a cage and less than 6 kg.

I remember at that moment time seemed to slow down a little and a pleasant old man in a grey suit with cane and a trilby type hat approached as I caused a fuss with customer service. I was asking to see the station manager as I wanted to plead my case, the old gentleman eased into the conversation and with a few words here and there managed to direct the lady to search for the station manager whilst drawing a taxi driver into the conversation and negotiating a price for a taxi.
When these things happen I am starting to learn to relax and open up, the natural impulse, at least for me is to push it away as Ive generally got a plan to follow and follow it I will, but slowly Im learning. The moment felt right, the taxi driver went outside to negotiate with a driver and the old man suggested I follow the driver outside to continue the negotiation. It was one of those moments when you must decide - do I leave my bags with this well dressed and amicable older gentleman in the lobby of Casablanca train station whilst I disappear out of site with some man that claims he can, or someone can, taxi me to Tangier. I walked towards the driver a few paces, then stopped and turned, the old gentleman was looking at me and I at him.

The fair negotiated to 1600 dhms and the ubiquitous Merc 230 looking in better nick than most and probably capable of a 350 km journey, I skipped back to the Gare lobby. My Gentleman was still there and as before looked calm and dignified, we chatted for a moment and exchanged some information before he placed his hand on my arm and suggested that I talk to the two American girls sitting on the bench behind. He whispered in beautifully accented English that he had overheard them talking about Tangier and advised me that they could get an immediate refund on the ticket if they cashed it in. I made to approach the girls but he stopped me saying he had to dash, we shook hands again and I thanked him for his help. He smiled and gracefully moved away before I could embarrass myself with some gesture of monetary compensation.

The 2 girls were fresh and beautiful and straight out of Princeton University, one with a job to start in 3 weeks as an investment banker for a wall street firm and the other full of radical environmental and social justice ideas with a dream to teach and educate in Asia, her parents being 1st generation US originally from Korea. The Taxi ride went quickly and Joe fell in love and was pampered all the way. We said goodbye on Tangier boulevard and they gave me their train fare money which really helped with the taxi fare.

La Tangerina Hotel is my home from home and Joe slotted in straight away, I was planning to leave the next morning but it just felt so good to be there, safe and nearly back in Spain that 1 night turned to 2. I met some great Ozzie and Kiwi girls who were just starting a trip and had a fun night on La Tangerina rooftop terrace watching the sun go down on Europe from Africa.

Friday morning saw us board the ferry to Tarifa with only minimal hassle from the boat steward for not having a cage for Joe, I was praying we could get buses on the Spanish side as I was down to about 50 euros and didn't really want to think about the coastal journey to Marbella. We blagged the free bus that runs from Tarifa to Algeciras but I could feel my force of will running out and things didnt look good from Algeciras onwards. After a very frustrating time at the bus station and 2 refusals I decided that buses were just not going to happen. In Marbella I jump on and off city buses with Joe all the time, but the coach type buses are having none of it, all animals over 6kg in a cage in the luggage compartment.

It was hot, I was way overloaded with my computer, my bag, Joe and his rucksack and a plastic bucket of dog food, a very well appointed hobo would probably describe my appearance, but I had a plan. If I could get to the motorway access road I could hitch, I didnt look like a hitch hiker but rather someone who's car had broken down, I mean it could happen to you, and if it did wouldn't you want someone to pick you up too?

I was bloody lost in Algeciras, hot and sweaty and probably looking a little desperate when I saw a little Grey haired lady unloading her car of grocery bags. I approached her and she immediately started petting Joe, she told me that she was an animal lover and that since her husbands death a few years back her dog was her light. She told me to hang on and brought water for us both from her house, I helped her finish unloading her car then she drove us to the motorway.

Refreshed and within striking distance of Kenneth's house I arranged our stall on the scorched verge of the slip road to the main A7, direction Malaga. Since 360 Mike introduced me to "the secret" some months back Ive studied it some more and watched a few videos of Ester Hicks and I am trying to exercise the techniques whenever I remember. I sat on Joes food bucket with the Dell computer bag and Nikon camera case to the fore and practiced.

What do I want? I red sports car with a leggy brunette in dire need of a web site going to Marbella?
ok lets keep it simple stupid.

A chauffeur driven air conditioned car going to Marbella.

right, now imagine already having that, how does it feel with the AC blowing across your face? as you watch the familiar countryside speed by, as you round that corner, the special corner with the windmills and the incredible view across the straights of Gibraltar, the cloud capped peaks of the Rif Atlas mountains, back where you just came from.
My visualization was broken by the crunch of tyre on gravel. A large black saloon car pulled up.

He was a chauffeur for a large construction company working just out of Algeciras, the company was building a huge natural gas something or other that was being constructed just outside of Algeciras bay but would be towed, by barge, to its final destination off the coast of Northern Italy. It was a huge job and he had been company chauffeur for 2 years, basically running company execs to and from Algeciras and Malaga airport. He was finished for the day and even though he wasn't going as far as Marbella and Kenneth's house it would be no problem to drop me at his door. I arrived just in time to join the Holland football party that was going on for the Euro Cup.

Steve and Laure arrived with Jackque driving, at 4am the following morning, having driven from the Algarve in Portugal. We spent a couple of hours catching up and draining the dregs of the football party booze before heading up to Damien's and Lilie's to drop of Joe. Damien had kindly offered to look after Joe for the week and it wasn't long before Steve, Laure and I were checked in and ready for take off. The plane sat on the runway for an hour meaning we missed our connecting flight from Luton to Nice and Geezer stood at Nice airport with a chronic hangover expecting us to arrive on the original flight. We had 3 days in Antibes before flying up to Paris with Chris from The Glamorgan and Geezer. That made 5 of us but after 2 days of Geezering it up in Antibes, an arse kicking on the Golf course and about 10 hours sleep it was a bedraggled bunch that took on Paris.



We stayed between Ghitas and Nikki's apartment and just round the corner at Andre's place in Vincennes; an area just out of Paris that I have really grown to like. It has great communication to Paris on metro and RER but the bosque and park floral make me feel like im far out in the country. We partied hard but with half full batteries and lots of money worries we didn't make the most of it. Paris is a magnificent city and just what I needed after the black hole of culture ive been living in for the last 9 months. I spent a great day wandering the Marais with Catalina and to be around architecture and fine art made me feel like a dry sponge sucking up water.



Plans started to form with lots of friends offering me their support which was just what I needed as I still had no firm plans as to what my next move would be. I jumped at Andre's offer to look after Joe, Andre's dog, Ollie is a two year old male Pekinese/terrier cross and I could see that Joe would be happy there. Joe holds a special place in Andre's heart too as we all house shared at Avenida Palmeras, for 3 years, it wasn't as good as home but as I don't have one currently, Joe has the next best thing. I headed back to Malaga feeling positive with a goal to work to - get Joe to Paris.

Damien again extended his hospitality and with Lillie away visiting family in Bella Russia we had a great week and a chance to talk and catch up like we havnt done in years. With no news from Morocco and no work on the horizon I needed to drag my feet and a safe place to crash for a while before heading to Paris. So I rang big Paul in Madrid, bought a second hand dog cage from a very nice lady that drove from Marbella to Benalmadena to drop it off, said my goodbyes to Damien and Lillie and stuffed Joe in the luggage compartment of the bus - we were off.



Madrid is another beautiful city and I walked miles through the Retiro with Joe and through my old barrio and favorite haunts. Paul retired recently and is living the classic batchelor life, his home - his old office converted, with lots of boys toys. A great pool table in the main room and we bought a new laptop and media drive onto which I copied my digital library, to give him a good start.
I took Joe round to the vet in Marbella and he had an anti inflammatory injection which had reduced the size of the cyst slightly, Monica advised another jab in Madrid and to take a biopsy. The result came back that he has an inverted saliva gland which will probably have to be opened up at some time but its reduced in size considerably and its not an urgent problem.
After 9 fun filled and slightly mad days with Paul it was time to give him back his couch. Friends showed further largess and booked Joe and I on a Madrid - Paris flight we said our goodbyes to Paul, who kindly ignored the credit crunch and extended the international debt mountain by a wee bit and we headed for Joe's new home for a while.


Ghita saved my aching back by offering me the use of her room as she was away visiting family in Denmark; What luxury a room, a bed, soft clean sheets. Joe and I settled in well and flat sharing with Nikki was great fun. Joe and Ollie didn't hit it off on the first visit to Andre's place. Two matcho A's and Joe probably not on the best of his form after so much travelling and change. Andre showed true canine training ability and in just a few days he had Joe and Ollie firmly under his command. I did my best to keep totally silent and not touch or acknowledge Joe in any way when Andre was training, that was a hard but valuable experience.

With Bastille day and a long weekend coming up Tabitha invited us down to her and Richards country pile. A beautiful little cottage in the quintessential French village of Fraze. Liz, Joe and I hopped on the Paris to Chartres train. (no cages for dogs, no charges and bloody great trains) and in no time we were corking a fine red and enjoying rillets, pate, cheese and crusty local bread in the garden. Richard is turning himself into a gourmet chef and the food we enjoyed and the memorable whiskey marketing session stand alongside Hooka Liz and fun filled scrabble.

With a call from Hamid over the weekend saying that something might happen with the fishing license I decided it was time to bite the bullet and head back to Morocco.

and so the journey continues, like a Moroccan bus's headlights that only illuminate a few feet of road in front yet can cross the country in a night, by only seeing a few feet in front, knowing their destination and having faith. I would like to express my gratitude to all my family and friends for allowing me to share in your lives and to continue my journey.
Until the next installment - enshalla.